#4 Toshikoshi Soba: A Traditional Japanese New Year's Eve Dish

How the Japanese Celebrate New Year's Eve and Welcome the New Year

In Japanese culture, the New Year's period is given great importance. After Christmas, Japan quickly transitions into New Year's mode in just one day. Store displays are changed, and various New Year's-related products start appearing on the shelves.

The atmosphere of New Year's in Japan has a solemn and serene image, so when I spent my first New Year's Eve in Berlin, I was surprised by the loud sound of firecrackers ringing out everywhere.

In today’s newsletter, I’ll share how we spend the New Year's period in Japan, the events on New Year’s Eve, and a recipe for "Toshikoshi Soba" (New Year's Eve noodles), which is traditionally eaten on December 31st.

Kagami mochi is a symbolic New Year's decoration, believed to house the deity of the New Year.

During the New Year's period, there is a food offering placed in homes, known as "Kagami mochi". While it is essentially rice cake, its shape holds significant meaning.

Kagami mochi is believed to house the deity of the New Year. The round shape of the mochi is said to represent the human soul (or heart), and because one of the Three Sacred Treasures of Japan is a circular mirror, it came to be called "Kagami mochi" (mirror rice cake). Additionally, the two stacked pieces of mochi symbolize the "moon" (yin) and the "sun" (yang), representing the idea of fortune and blessings accumulating, making it an auspicious symbol.

Some households and regions make their own Kagami mochi by steaming glutinous rice and shaping it by hand. However, during this time, various sizes of pre-made Kagami mochi are available in supermarkets.

In Berlin, you can find Kagami mochi at local Asian supermarkets year-round, so for Japanese people, it’s hard to feel that seasonal or special New Year's vibe anymore! (Though I suppose that's what happens when it’s available all the time—no more excitement, haha!)

When to Display and Remove Kagami Mochi

Kagami mochi is typically displayed starting on December 28th, as the shape of the kanji for "eight" (八) symbolizes prosperity. It is kept until January 11th, when the "Kagami Biraki" ceremony takes place, during which the mochi is broken and eaten. In some regions, it may be eaten later, on January 15th or 20th, and in Kyoto, on January 4th.

Kagami mochi represents the deity of the New Year and is believed to bring blessings of health and peace. During Kagami Biraki, the mochi is traditionally broken with a wooden mallet or rolling pin (not a knife) to preserve its spiritual power. It is then divided into smaller pieces.

The mochi is often enjoyed in ozoni (New Year's soup) or oshiruko (sweet red bean soup). Alternatively, it can be fried to make crispy agi mochi (fried mochi), a favorite treat for children. (I remember eating it fresh out of the fryer, sprinkled with salt, eager to grab a bite before anyone else could!)

Welcoming the New Year while listening to the Joya no Kane (the bell tolling at midnight).

Let me introduce a New Year's tradition in Japan. The Joya no Kane refers to the bell tolled at temples on New Year's Eve. This bell has an important meaning: it is rung to drive away evil and misfortune, allowing people to greet the New Year with a pure heart.

The Joya no Kane is rung from the night of December 31st until the moment the New Year begins.

Typically, the bell is tolled 108 times. This number corresponds to the 108 worldly desires (or "bonnō") in Buddhism, which are said to disturb the mind and cause suffering. By ringing the bell 108 times on New Year's Eve, it is believed that these desires are dispelled, and people can welcome the New Year with a clear and pure heart.

In recent years, since I often spend New Year's Eve in Germany, I listen to the sound of the Joya no Kane on YouTube and take time to reflect, greeting the New Year with a peaceful mind. It is a time I cherish deeply, as it feels like a cleansing of the heart.

This shows a scene of preliminary practice taking place at Chion-in Temple, a historically significant Jodo-shu temple in Kyoto, in preparation for New Year's Eve. If you are in Japan for New Year's, I highly recommend visiting a temple where the Joya no Kane is tolled!

Toshikoshi Soba (New Year's Eve Noodles)

Toshikoshi soba is a traditional dish eaten on New Year's Eve in Japan, and it is an important part of the food culture that helps prepare for the coming year while sharing the meal with family and friends.

Why do we eat soba on New Year's Eve? There are various theories, but one reason is that the long, thin shape of the soba symbolizes a wish for longevity. Additionally, since soba is more easily cut than other noodles, it is said that eating it represents "cutting off the misfortunes and hardships of the past year, leaving them behind as we enter the new year."

There are regional differences in how Toshikoshi soba is eaten. For example, in the Kansai region, kake soba (hot soba) is more common, while in the Kanto region, zaru soba (cold soba) is typically enjoyed. In the Kanto style, the broth is made with bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and seasoned with dark soy sauce. In the Kansai style, the broth is made with kombu (seaweed) and seasoned with light soy sauce, resulting in a lighter-colored broth. Since it is often difficult to find light soy sauce overseas, I personally enjoy making it in the Kanto style.

Types of Soba

Soba is primarily classified based on the ratio of buckwheat flour to other ingredients and the method of preparation. In Japan, hand-made fresh noodles are available, but overseas, dry soba noodles are more common.

1. 100% Soba (Juwari Soba)

Made with 100% buckwheat flour, this type of soba has a strong buckwheat flavor and a firm texture, with a slightly rough surface. Since it contains no wheat flour, it is less sticky, making it harder to knead and shape. It is generally served fresh rather than as dry noodles.

2. 80/20 Soba (Ni-Hachi Soba)

This type of soba is made with 80% buckwheat flour and 20% wheat flour. The inclusion of wheat flour gives it a chewier texture and smoother consistency when eaten. It is also easier to make at home, so it is the most commonly enjoyed type of soba.

When purchasing soba, it is recommended to carefully check the ingredients list. Most soba noodles are made mostly from wheat flour, with only a small amount of buckwheat flour. However, you can find 100% soba and 80/20 soba if you look for them (they are usually more expensive, so they are easier to identify!).

Recipe

I'll be sharing a recipe for warm Toshikoshi soba (New Year's Eve soba). While ready-made noodle soups (men-tsuyu) are available in stores, I think it's great to use them if you're looking for a quick and easy option. These ready-made soups range from those that can be used as-is to ones that need to be diluted with 2-3 times the amount of water. Be sure to read the package carefully (and if necessary, you can use Google Translate to help!) and follow the instructions.

Now, I'll show you how to make your own noodle soup (men-tsuyu) starting from dashi. For a guide on how to make dashi, please refer to the article below. If you're using store-bought men-tsuyu, you won’t need to make the dashi yourself.

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[ Ingredients ] for 2 servings